Marbella Old Town (Casco Antiguo)

Marbella has a reputation for luxury resorts, yachts and golf, but behind the seafront lies an old town that has kept the look of a small Andalusian town. The Casco Antiguo lies a short walk inland from the beach and the marina, and it is a network of narrow, winding lanes lined with whitewashed houses, wrought-iron balconies and pots of geraniums and bougainvillea. The contrast with the glittering coast is striking, and for many visitors the old town is the most attractive part of Marbella.

The centre of the old town is the Plaza de los Naranjos, the Orange Square, laid out in the sixteenth century after the Christian conquest of the town in 1485. It is a small, shady square planted with orange trees, with a fountain from the early seventeenth century, and it is surrounded by historic buildings. The Casa Consistorial, the town hall, stands on one side, and the Casa del Corregidor, a sixteenth-century building that once housed the king's magistrate, stands on another. Nearby, the little Ermita de Santiago is one of the oldest chapels in Marbella, and its modest form dates back to the first years of Christian rule. Terraces of cafes and restaurants fill the plaza.

The layout of the lanes, narrow and twisting, comes from the Muslim town, and remains of the old fortress, the Alcazaba, and parts of the walls can be seen in a corner of the old quarter, where stretches of Moorish masonry survive. The influence of Islamic planning, which favoured narrow shaded streets, can be felt as you walk, since the lanes keep the heat out. Streets such as Calle Ancha and the small squares around the church of la Encarnación are lined with boutiques, craft shops, galleries and tapas bars. The Hospital de Bazán, a sixteenth-century building, houses a museum of contemporary engraving.

The old town is also a good place to eat. Restaurants serve Andalusian dishes such as fried fish, grilled sardines, gazpacho and jamón, and tapas bars fill with locals and visitors in the evening. The mood is relaxed and a little elegant, and the lanes are especially attractive at night, when the lights come on.

The Casco Antiguo is just minutes from the Alameda Park, the beach and the marina, and Puerto Banús is a short drive along the coast, so it is easy to combine the old town with a day by the sea. It suits couples, shoppers and anyone interested in the historical side of the Costa del Sol. Mornings and early evenings are best for strolling, as the middle of the day is hot and busy.