Mercado de la Ribera

The Mercado de la Ribera is the great covered market of Bilbao, standing on the bank of the Nervión estuary at the edge of Casco Viejo, the Old Town. It opened in 1929 on the site of earlier markets and was designed by the architect Pedro Ispizua, who gave it a bold, modern form for its day. The building has a long, low profile like a ship moored beside the water, and its Art Deco and Rationalist lines make it look more like a piece of industrial architecture than a traditional market hall. It is regularly cited as one of the largest covered markets in Europe.

Inside, the long hall is airy and well lit, with a high vault that keeps the stalls bright and cool. The produce sections are organised by trade: butchers, fishmongers, greengrocers, bakers and cheese sellers. The fish section is especially impressive, with fresh catch from the Bay of Biscay laid out on ice, among it cod, hake, anchovies and shellfish, reflecting the place of the sea in Basque cooking. Meat counters offer local cuts, chorizo and cured products, and fruit and vegetable stalls change with the seasons.

The building was restored in the 1990s, and the upper level now includes a food area with places to eat, so you can combine shopping with a drink or a meal. Basque cooking is built on small plates, pintxos, and the market is a good place to meet the ingredients behind them. Locals use it for everyday shopping, which gives it an unforced authenticity that some tourist-focused halls lack.

The market is on the edge of the old town, a few minutes from the Plaza Nueva and the Cathedral, and close to the San Nicolás Church. A short walk along the estuary leads to the Zubizuri footbridge and the waterfront district of Abandoibarra, where the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao stands. That makes the market easy to combine with a stroll by the river and a visit to the old town's cafes and bars.

It suits food lovers, photographers and anyone wanting to understand how Bilbao eats. Morning is the best time, when the stalls are at their fullest, and weekday visits are calmer than Saturdays. Many stalls close in the afternoon, so plan accordingly, and opening patterns differ between vendors and the eating areas.