Plaza Mayor de Colmenar de Oreja

The Plaza Mayor of Colmenar de Oreja is the main square of a small historic town in the south-east of the Community of Madrid, about fifty kilometres from the capital, and it is one of the most distinctive plazas in the region. The town stands on a rise above the valley of the Tajuña river, in a landscape of vineyards and olive groves, and it has long been known for its wine and for its large clay jars, tinajas, in which wine and oil were stored, which still stand in front of houses and in public places as decoration. The square is the centre of its social life, and it has kept the character of a country town, in sharp contrast to the metropolis not far away.

The plaza is irregular in shape, rather than a neat rectangle, as many main squares in Castile are, and it is surrounded by old houses with arcades on some sides and wooden balconies on the upper floors. The balconies were traditionally used as boxes from which the residents could watch festivals and bullfights held in the square, and the arrangement recalls the origins of the Spanish plaza mayor as a place for markets, celebrations and public events. The houses are mostly low, with whitewashed or pale-coloured walls, tiled roofs and wooden beams, and they look much as they would have a century ago. In the evening, the light on the facades and the tables of the cafes outside create a warm, relaxed atmosphere.

The square is overlooked by the Parish Church of Santa María la Mayor, one of the most important buildings in the town. The church, with its large tower, dominates the skyline, and it adds weight to the setting. The streets that lead off the plaza are narrow, and they climb to other parts of the old town, past houses with doorways and coats of arms, small squares and viewpoints over the valley. Around the plaza, traditional shops sell local products, such as wine, olive oil, cheese and sweets, and bars and restaurants offer typical dishes of the region, among them roasted meats and stews. The wines of the nearby Vinos de Madrid area are part of the appeal.

Colmenar de Oreja has a cultural link with painting. The artist Ulpiano Checa was born in the town in 1860, and a museum in a building near the plaza displays his work, with dramatic historical and chariot scenes. The town’s festivals, which take place through the year, particularly in the summer, bring bands, processions and bullfights into the square.

The plaza is a public space and entry is free. It is reached by car from Madrid in about an hour, or by local bus, and it works well as an easy day trip, perhaps combined with a visit to a wine cellar and a walk through the town. The Ermita de San Sebastián is among the other small monuments of the town. Early evening, when the heat has eased, is the best time to sit with a drink and watch the square come to life.