Retiro Park (Parque del Buen Retiro)

Retiro Park, the Parque del Buen Retiro, is the largest park in central Madrid and the city's favourite place to relax. It began in the 1630s as a royal retreat attached to a palace built for King Philip IV, laid out with gardens, ponds and pavilions where the court could hold plays and festivities. For two centuries it was reserved for the monarchy, and it opened to the public in 1868. In 2021 UNESCO recognised it as part of the cultural landscape of the Paseo del Prado and Buen Retiro, together with the avenue and museums that lie to the west. It covers well over a hundred hectares and holds thousands of trees.

The park is a mix of formal gardens, woods and open lawns. Its centrepiece is the Estanque Grande, a large rectangular pond where families rent rowing boats, with the great Monument to Alfonso XII on its far side, a semicircular colonnade of stone with an equestrian statue. Musicians, street performers and artists usually gather around it, especially at weekends. Wide tree-lined avenues, including the Paseo de las Estatuas, lead through the park.

Several buildings add interest. The Palacio de Cristal, built in 1887 for an exhibition about the Philippines, is a light structure of glass and iron beside a small lake and hosts free contemporary art installations. Nearby the Palacio de Velázquez is used for exhibitions. The Rosaleda, a formal rose garden, reaches its best in late spring, and the Jardín de Vivaces and the Jardines de Cecilio Rodríguez, named after the head gardener who designed them, offer calm corners with peacocks and shaded paths. The Fuente del Ángel Caído, a fountain with a statue of a fallen angel, is often said to be one of the few public monuments to the devil in Europe. An ancient Mexican conifer, an ahuehuete, stands in the park and is among the oldest trees in Madrid.

The Retiro is also a venue for events, including the annual book fair, and street entertainment throughout the year. Entry is free and the gates are open from early morning until late evening, though the park can close during strong winds or storms for safety. In summer, the shade gives welcome relief from the heat in the city.

It is close to the Prado Museum and the Reina Sofía Museum, so it works as a break between gallery visits. It suits families, joggers, picnickers and photographers, and a slow loop of the main sights takes about two hours.