Royal Collegiate Basilica of San Isidoro

The Royal Collegiate Basilica of San Isidoro in León is one of the great monuments of Spanish Romanesque art and the burial place of the kings of León. It stands in the old town beside a fragment of the Roman wall, a short walk from León Cathedral, and it is dedicated to Saint Isidore of Seville, the seventh-century scholar and bishop whose relics were brought here from Seville in 1063. The church was built in the eleventh and twelfth centuries under the patronage of King Ferdinand I and his daughter, the Infanta Sancha, and then enlarged by later monarchs. It was a royal foundation from the start, and its prestige made León a place of pilgrimage on the route to Santiago de Compostela.

The exterior shows the sturdy forms of the Romanesque, with thick stone walls, round arches and a high tower. Two carved doorways face the street. The Puerta del Cordero, the Lamb's Door, has sculptures of the sacrifice of Isaac and the Agnus Dei, and the Puerta del Perdón, the Door of Forgiveness, which pilgrims used, is richly carved with biblical scenes. Inside, the church combines Romanesque and later Gothic and Baroque parts, with three naves, and it holds a number of tombs and chapels.

The highlight is the Royal Pantheon, a small, low chamber at the west end that was built in the early twelfth century as the burial place of the royal family. Here lie the tombs of several kings of León and their relatives, and the vaults above them are covered with Romanesque frescoes of astonishing quality and freshness, dating from the twelfth century. The paintings show scenes from the Gospels, such as the Annunciation to the Shepherds, the Last Supper and the Crucifixion, as well as a calendar of the months with agricultural tasks. They are so well preserved that the chamber is often called the Sistine Chapel of Romanesque art. The columns of the pantheon have carved capitals with plants, animals and figures.

The museum and treasury give further insights. They house the Chalice of Doña Urraca, a late Roman cup of onyx set in gold and gems, which is associated with the legend of the Holy Grail, along with ivories, reliquaries, illuminated manuscripts and other pieces. The collegiate library keeps old books and documents, including medieval manuscripts.

Visits to the pantheon and museum are usually by guided tour, and groups may be limited, so it is wise to book in advance. As an active church, San Isidoro holds services, so modest dress is expected, and access can change. It suits history and art lovers, and combines with a visit to León Cathedral, the Casa Botines and the old quarter, the Barrio Húmedo, known for its tapas bars.