About the park
The Parque del Buen Retiro, usually just called El Retiro, covers about 125 hectares on the eastern edge of central Madrid, next to the Puerta de Alcalá and a short walk from the Prado Museum. It was laid out in the 1630s as the garden of a royal palace built for Philip IV, and it remained Crown property until 1868, when it passed to the city after Isabella II was deposed.
Since 2021, the park and the neighbouring Paseo del Prado have formed a UNESCO World Heritage Site, known as the "Landscape of Light", recognising this area of gardens, museums and scientific institutions. The park has more than 15,000 trees and is free to enter.
Opening hours and getting there
The park opens at 6am every day. From April to September it closes at midnight, and from October to March at 10pm. The city can close Retiro and other parks during storms, strong winds or extreme heat, so check for closures if the weather is severe.
The nearest metro stations are Retiro (line 2), on the north side, and Ibiza (line 9) on the east. Atocha and Estación del Arte (line 1) are near the southern corner, as is the Madrid-Atocha railway station. Many city bus lines pass the park, and BiciMAD bike-share stations are located around it.
Rowing boats on the Estanque
The Estanque Grande is the large rectangular artificial lake near the north entrance. Along one side stands the monument to King Alfonso XII, with a semicircular colonnade and an equestrian statue on a tall central column. The monument's steps are a popular place to sit and watch the boats.
Renting a rowing boat on the Estanque is one of the most popular things to do in Madrid:
- Who runs it: the boat rental is operated by the city, from the jetty on the lake.
- How long: each rental is for 45 minutes.
- How many people: up to four people per boat.
- Price: a modest fixed fee per boat, higher on weekends and public holidays. Check the current rates with the city before you go, as they change.
- Booking: tickets can be booked in advance through the city's Madrid Móvil app or bought at the jetty when there is availability. Booking ahead is wise on weekends and in spring and summer.
- Hours: the boats run during the day, with longer hours in the warmer months. They may not run in bad weather.
Rowing is easy for beginners, and the lake is shallow and calm. Weekday mornings are the quietest time; late afternoons on weekends are the busiest.
Other highlights
The Palacio de Cristal (Crystal Palace). A glass and iron pavilion built in 1887 for an exhibition about the Philippines, set beside a small lake. The Reina Sofía museum uses it for temporary art installations, so it is closed between exhibitions.
The Palacio de Velázquez. Built in 1884 for a mining exhibition, it is also used by the Reina Sofía for temporary exhibitions. Check the museum's website for what is showing.
The Fallen Angel Fountain. Installed in 1922, this statue of Lucifer falling from heaven is by Ricardo Bellver. It stands near the Rose Garden in the southern part of the park.
La Rosaleda (Rose Garden). An early twentieth-century rose garden inspired by the Bagatelle garden in Paris, at its best in May and June.
The Bosque del Recuerdo. A memorial garden near the Atocha side of the park, dedicated to the 191 victims of the 11 March 2004 train bombings.
Old trees. The park has some very old specimens, including a Montezuma cypress in the Parterre Francés, believed to be one of the oldest trees in Madrid.
Best times to visit
Weekday mornings are calm, with joggers and dog walkers. On weekends, especially Sunday, the park fills with families, street performers and musicians around the Estanque, which is fun but crowded. Spring brings flowers and fresh green, and autumn colours are good in October and November. In summer, the shade under the trees helps, but the boats and paths are hot in the middle of the day, so come early or in the evening.
Practical tips
- Combine your visit with the Prado, the Thyssen-Bornemisza or the Reina Sofía, all within walking distance.
- Bring water in summer; there are drinking fountains and kiosks, but they can be busy.
- Enter from the Puerta de Alcalá side to reach the Estanque quickly, or from Atocha for the Rose Garden and the Fallen Angel.
- Allow two to three hours to see the main sights at a relaxed pace, including a boat ride.
