Barceloneta Beach

Barceloneta Beach is the city beach of Barcelona, a long strip of sand that lies a short walk from the old centre and the harbour, so close that people go for a swim on their lunch break. The sand and the waterfront as they exist today are products of modern Barcelona: until the late twentieth century, the coast here was lined with factories, warehouses and the old bathing huts. In preparation for the 1992 Olympics, the city cleaned up the shoreline, removed industrial buildings and created new beaches, with the Passeig Marítim promenade along the back, and this turned the sea from a backdrop into a central part of the city.

The district behind the beach, Barceloneta, was founded in 1753. After the siege of 1714, the Bourbon authorities demolished part of the old city to build the Ciutadella fortress, and the people who lost their homes were resettled on this strip of land by the harbour. Military engineers laid out the neighbourhood in a grid of narrow, straight streets and small blocks of low houses, and it remained the home of fishermen, sailors and dockworkers. Today the streets are lined with laundry, small bars and family-run restaurants, and the area still has a local feel despite the crowds. A market and the church of Sant Miquel are in the middle.

The beach itself is wide and busy, with fine sand, showers and facilities, and lifeguards in summer. The Passeig Marítim, wide and flat, is a favourite with walkers, joggers and cyclists, and a line of beach bars, called chiringuitos, serves drinks and snacks. Some waterfront restaurants are touristy, while the better places for seafood and rice dishes are found a street or two behind the sand, where locals eat. A large rusted sculpture by Rebecca Horn, a stack of cubes known as L'Estel Ferit, stands on the sand as a reminder of the old bathing huts, and the sail-shaped W Hotel marks the southern end.

To reach the beach, take the metro to Barceloneta station on line 4 or walk from Port Vell or the Gothic Quarter, a trip of 10 to 15 minutes. In summer it is crowded, so go early in the morning or in the evening, and keep a close eye on your belongings, as petty theft is common. In shoulder season the beach is calm and pleasant for a walk.

It suits families, swimmers, sunbathers and anyone who wants a city and a beach in one trip.