Barrio del Carmen

Barrio del Carmen, or El Carme in Valencian, is the oldest part of Valencia’s old town, Ciutat Vella, and it has the most atmosphere. It lies in the north-western part of the historic centre, beside the Turia Gardens, in a maze of narrow, winding lanes that follow the medieval street pattern. The district was once partly outside the early walls and later was enclosed by the Christian walls of the fourteenth century, so it preserves a layered history. Its character today is bohemian: artists, students and musicians have lived here since the 1980s, and the area is full of small galleries, workshops, bars and cafes.

The quarter has some significant monuments. The Torres de Serranos, built between 1392 and 1398, is a huge Gothic city gate that opens onto the Turia Gardens, and it is one of the best-preserved medieval gates in Europe. Visitors can climb it for views across the old town. The Torres de Quart, a few streets away on the other side of the barrio, were completed in the fifteenth century and still show the scars of cannonball hits from Napoleon’s siege of the city in 1808. Fragments of earlier Moorish walls survive in places, and traces of the Roman city lie beneath the streets.

The barrio takes its name from the Convento del Carmen Calzado, a Carmelite convent founded in 1281, whose buildings now house the Centre del Carme, a venue for contemporary art and cultural events, with a cloister that is worth a visit. The IVAM, the Valencian Institute of Modern Art, is another major draw, and it holds one of Spain’s significant collections of twentieth-century art, including the work of the sculptor Julio González. Together they make the barrio a centre of Valencia’s cultural life.

Walking around, you will find houses with iron balconies, small plazas, and a lot of street art. Murals by local and international artists cover walls and shutters, and they change from year to year, so a second visit can bring surprises. During the day the area is quiet, with artisan shops, traditional bakeries and small cafes. At night it becomes lively, with tapas bars, live music venues and crowds on the plazas, so noise can be an issue for residents. The Plaza del Tossal and the Plaza del Carmen are among the main gathering spots.

The barrio is within a short walk of the Valencia Cathedral, the Plaza de la Virgen and the Central Market, so it fits easily into a day in the old town. Wear comfortable shoes for the cobbles, and note that the lanes are confusing, so a map helps, though getting lost is part of the pleasure.