Iglesia de Santa María la Antigua

The Iglesia de Santa María la Antigua is among the oldest churches in Valladolid, and its Romanesque tower is the most distinctive monument in the old part of the city. The church was founded in the twelfth century, when Valladolid was still a modest town that was beginning to grow under the patronage of the counts and kings of Castile, and it was the parish church of one of the early neighbourhoods. Its position, a short way from the cathedral and the university area, places it among the most historic corners of the old centre.

The tower is the main feature. It rises to roughly fifty metres, built of brick and stone in the Romanesque manner, with several storeys of arched openings that become wider and more elaborate towards the top, and it is crowned by a tall pyramid-shaped spire. It is one of the tallest Romanesque towers in Spain and is visible from many parts of the city, which makes it an important part of the skyline. The proportions of the tower and the rhythm of its arcades show the influence of the architecture of Lombardy, a style that spread across northern Spain at the time.

The church that stands beside the tower is Gothic. In the fourteenth century, the original Romanesque body was largely replaced by a new church with pointed arches and ribbed vaults, a change that was typical of many churches in Castile, where the Romanesque tower was kept while the nave was rebuilt in the fashion of the time. The result is a combination of two styles, with the older tower rising next to the later church. The building was damaged over the centuries and underwent restoration in the twentieth century, which uncovered some of the early Romanesque features, and the interior is now simple and open, with a calm atmosphere.

Because the church is still used for worship, visiting hours depend on the religious schedule, and they have been reported as limited, with opening on certain days in the summer. Check locally before planning a visit, and respect services. Entry is generally free. Much of the appeal is the exterior, and the best view of the tower is from the surrounding streets and the plaza.

The church is close to other points of interest in Valladolid. The Cathedral and the Museo Nacional de Escultura, with its remarkable collection of carved and painted religious sculpture, are within walking distance, and the Casa de Colón, the Iglesia de San Pablo and the Palacio de Pimentel are in the same area. A visit to the church can take as little as twenty minutes.