Mercado Mayor

This is the Plaza Mayor of Salamanca, also known as the Mercado Mayor, a reflection of its past as a market square. It is the great arcaded square of the city, built in the eighteenth century in the Baroque style, in the warm golden sandstone that has given Salamanca the nickname La Ciudad Dorada, the Golden City. It is part of the Old City of Salamanca, which UNESCO named a World Heritage Site in 1988. Most Spaniards consider it among the most beautiful squares in the country.

Construction took place between 1729 and 1755. The design was the work of Alberto de Churriguera, a member of the family of architects whose name became synonymous with the exuberant Baroque style, and the work was continued by Andrés García de Quiñones and then by other builders. The square is not a perfect rectangle, since its sides vary slightly in length and angle, but the uniform façades and the continuous arcade on the ground floor create the effect of harmony. Above the arches, three more levels of balconies rise to a decorated roofline. The Town Hall, with its clock and a more elaborate facade, occupies the north side.

One of the most charming features is the series of stone medallions set in the spandrels between the arches, which carry portraits in relief. They show kings of Spain, famous Spaniards and other figures from history and culture, including conquerors, writers and saints, and many visitors spend time trying to identify them. Some have been replaced over the years, reflecting political change. The Pabellón Real, a pavilion in the centre of the east side, has portraits of the Spanish monarchs.

The plaza has always been the place to meet. Locals say it is the city's living room, and it is busy throughout the day with people crossing, sitting on terraces and making appointments under the clock. In the evenings, students dressed in traditional costume, known as Tunas, play guitars, lutes and tambourines, singing serenades in the arcades in a custom that goes back centuries. Cafes and restaurants line the ground floor, and the square is lively late into the night. The Plaza del Corrillo, a small neighbouring square, is also part of the market area.

The square is open at all hours and entry is free. It suits everyone, and it makes a natural centre for a walk to the cathedrals, the University of Salamanca, the Casa de las Conchas and the Convento de San Esteban, all within a short distance. The best time is in the evening, when the golden stone is lit and the atmosphere is at its best.