Real Casino de Murcia

The Real Casino de Murcia is one of the most elegant buildings in the centre of Murcia, a nineteenth-century social club on Calle Trapería, the main shopping street of the old city, a few steps from the cathedral. A casino in this sense is not a gambling hall but a private society or club, of the type founded in many Spanish cities in the nineteenth century, where the local middle class met to read the newspapers, talk, play cards, dance and hold parties. The Murcia society was founded in the 1840s, and in the following decades it built an increasingly grand home, which was expanded and decorated until the early twentieth century. It remains a private club, run by its members, but parts of it can be visited.

The style of the building is eclectic, a mixture of influences typical of the period, and it includes elements of modernism. The façade on Calle Trapería is a handsome front with balconies, columns and ornamental details, and the interior is richer. Its best-known room is the Arab Patio, a courtyard inspired by the Alhambra in Granada, with horseshoe arches, columns and elaborate plasterwork painted in rich colours, a fashion of the nineteenth century that borrowed from the architecture of Islamic Spain. It forms a surprising contrast with the neoclassical and Baroque rooms elsewhere in the building. The ballroom, with its painted ceiling, gilded decoration and large mirrors, evokes the elegance of the social life of the period, and other salons, a library, a lady’s room and a billiard room completed the facilities.

The building is protected as a site of cultural interest, in recognition of its architectural and historical value, and it was extensively restored. The title Real, royal, which the club now carries, reflects the approval of the crown for the institution and its standing in the city. The building is used not only by members but also for exhibitions, cultural events and business functions, and visits may be offered in some periods, so check locally with the club or the tourist office.

The casino has a place in the city’s traditions. During Holy Week in Murcia, one of the most important in Spain, the processions pass along Calle Trapería, and the club’s balconies have long been a place from which members watch the parade. The processions carry famous carved figures by the sculptor Francisco Salzillo, and the casino adds to the sense of occasion.

The building offers a glimpse into the social history of Murcia, showing how the middle classes of the nineteenth century lived and entertained themselves. The cathedral, with its Baroque façade, the Plaza de las Flores and the old streets are all close by, so a visit fits into a walk through the centre. Allow about forty minutes if a visit is possible. The building is best seen from the street if the interior is closed.