Basilica of San Vicente

The Basilica of San Vicente stands just outside the walls of Ávila, by the gate that bears its name, and it is one of the most important Romanesque churches in Castile. Built mostly in the twelfth century and continued into the thirteenth and fourteenth, it is made of the same granite and sandstone as the walls, and it is dedicated to Saint Vincent and his sisters Sabina and Cristeta, three Christian martyrs who, according to tradition, were put to death at Ávila during the Roman persecutions of the early fourth century. Their shrine drew pilgrims through the Middle Ages, and the basilica was built to give them a worthy resting place. The church is part of the group of monuments inscribed by UNESCO along with the walls of the old city.

The exterior shows the sturdy forms of the Romanesque, with a high apse, buttresses and two towers, one of them left unfinished. The most striking part is the west portico, a deep, arched porch of the thirteenth century, with a double doorway carved with rows of statues of apostles, prophets and saints, framed by archivolts that are rich in sculpted detail. Walking under it, you pass through a gallery of stone figures that show the transition from the Romanesque to the Gothic, and the sculptors' skill is notable. The capitals of the columns, carved with scenes and monsters, repay close attention.

Inside, the church has the plan of a Latin cross, with three naves, a transept and an apse, and the interior is dim and calm, with robust piers and round arches. The ribbed vaults in the central part, added in a later period, introduce a hint of Gothic lightness. The great treasure is the cenotaph of the martyrs, a monumental tomb under a canopy at the crossing of the transept. It is a Romanesque sculpture of the twelfth century, carved with reliefs that tell the story of the martyrdom of Vincent, Sabina and Cristeta, with figures in lively poses, and above it a Gothic canopy covers the tomb like a small stone building. Below the church, a crypt is said to be the place where the martyrs were buried.

The church stands on a quiet square near the Puerta de San Vicente, and the walls of the city rise nearby. It is a short walk from the Cathedral of El Salvador and the other sights of the old town, so it is easily combined with the walk along the Walls of Ávila. The basilica is also on the route of those who follow the footsteps of Saint Teresa, who was born in the city and who is said to have visited it.

The basilica suits lovers of medieval art and architecture, and a visit takes about half an hour. The entrance has steps, and opening hours vary by season, so check before you go.