Bodegas de Olite

Olite is known for its palace, but it is also wine country, and the cellars in and around the town are an enjoyable complement to the castle. The town lies in the middle of Navarre’s wine region, on gentle plains between the green hills of the north and the dry lands of the Ebro valley to the south, and vineyards surround it in every direction. Wine has been made here since Roman times, and in the Middle Ages the court of the kings of Navarre, who lived in the palace, was served by vines planted on the slopes around. Several wine producers, among them Bodegas Ochoa, a family firm established in the nineteenth century, welcome visitors in the town and its surroundings.

The local wines carry the Navarra denomination of origin. For a long time the region was best known for its rosados, the dry rosé wines made mostly from the garnacha grape, which are fresh, fruity and pale pink, and they remain a speciality. The area also produces red wines from tempranillo and garnacha, and in recent decades producers have experimented with international varieties such as cabernet sauvignon, merlot and chardonnay, so a tasting can show a range of styles. Many bodegas also work with older vines, which give wines with greater depth. The climate is a blend of Atlantic and Mediterranean influences, with cold winters and hot summers, and the contrast between day and night temperatures helps the grapes ripen with good acidity.

A visit to a bodega usually includes a tour of the cellar, where barrels and bottles lie in cool, dim rooms, an explanation of how the grapes are harvested, pressed and fermented, and a tasting of several wines, often with a small plate of local products such as cheese, cured meats or the piquillo peppers for which Navarre is known. The guides explain the grape varieties and the way the wines are made, and they are glad to answer questions. Some producers offer visits to the vineyards, and a few arrange meals or longer experiences, so it is wise to book in advance. Hours differ from place to place, and many close on certain days, so check ahead.

The cellars fit well into a day in Olite. The Royal Palace, with the New Palace open to visitors and the Old Palace housing the Parador, is the main attraction, and a walk through the town’s medieval streets, past the church of Santa María la Real and the Casa de la Cadena, takes in the other sights. A tasting at the end of the day is a pleasant conclusion. Visitors who plan to drive should take care, and some bodegas can arrange transport.

Olite is about forty kilometres south of Pamplona. The wine harvest in autumn is a lively time, with the vineyards turning gold and red.