Plaza de la Constitución

Olite is a small town in central Navarre with a skyline of towers and pointed roofs, and its main square sits just below the walls of one of the most unusual castles in Spain. The square is known locally as Plaza de Carlos III, after Charles III the Noble, the king who built the Palacio Real here in the early fifteenth century, and it is also given the official name Plaza de la Constitución. It is a modest open space, but it holds the town hall and is the natural starting point for walking up to the palace and through the old streets.

The Palacio Real de Olite, the Royal Palace of Olite, was the favourite residence of the kings of Navarre, a fortified palace with turrets, galleries and gardens that visitors compared to something from a story. It is split into two parts. The Palacio Viejo, the Old Palace, is now the Parador de Olite, a National Parador, a state-run hotel, while the Palacio Nuevo has been restored and opened to the public. The restoration of the palace began in the late 1930s and has continued in stages. Among its highlights are three towers: the Torre del Homenaje, the Torre de las Tres Coronas and the Torre de los Cuatro Vientos, which can be climbed for views across the town’s terracotta rooftops to the vineyards and the plain beyond. Visitors can walk through the New Palace with an audio guide or join a guided visit.

Around the square the town’s medieval layout survives, with narrow lanes and houses climbing in stepped rows. The church of Santa María la Real, with its richly carved Gothic portal, and the spire of the church of San Pedro are among the main landmarks, and the Casa de la Cadena is one of the notable noble houses. Jackdaws nest on the towers and roofs and give the town some of its sound.

Olite is also wine country. The region around the town produces Navarra wines, and it is known for rosado, and many cellars in and around the town offer visits and tastings. The Bodegas de Olite are among those that can be visited, and restaurants serve regional dishes such as lamb and piquillo peppers. Hotels, guesthouses and the Parador give the town enough lodging for an overnight stay.

The square is quiet outside the main holiday periods, which suits a slow wander. Olite is about forty kilometres south of Pamplona, so it works well as a half-day stop on a drive through Navarre, or as an overnight base for exploring the surrounding villages and castles.