Coastal Trails Of Monte Ulia

Monte Ulia is the green headland that rises on the eastern side of San Sebastián, between the Zurriola beach in the Gros district and the port of Pasaia, and its coastal trails give a very different view of the city from the sandy bay of La Concha. The hill is a protected natural area, with a rugged sea coast of cliffs and steep slopes covered in woods of oak, holm oak and gorse, and small farms and meadows dotted inland. It is high enough, at roughly two hundred and forty metres, to give wide panoramas over the Bay of Biscay, but the paths are not difficult, and a walk on the mountain is within the means of most people, including families with children.

The main route is part of the Camino de Santiago del Norte, the coastal pilgrim route that follows the northern coast of Spain, and it climbs from Gros and runs along the ridge toward Pasaia, the fishing and industrial port next to the city. The walk takes a couple of hours, and the path passes through shaded woods before opening out onto clearings with sea views. Sections follow old tracks and others are narrow paths on the hillside. Along the way, small viewpoints let you see the coast of Gipuzkoa, the mouth of the Urumea river, the line of the city's beaches and the open sea. Waymarks of the Camino, with the scallop shell, are visible. Whale lookouts once stood on this headland, from which watchers spotted whales to alert fishermen, and the lookout point known as the Peña del Ballenero is associated with this history.

The coast beneath the hill is wild and rocky. Layered rock strata, tilted and folded by ancient geological forces, form steep cliffs and small coves that are not easily reached from land, and the sea breaks against them in rough weather. Birds, including cormorants and gulls, nest on ledges, and in the woods, you may spot songbirds and, with luck, birds of prey. In spring, wildflowers cover the meadows, and in autumn, the colours change. The walk is a favourite of local residents, who use it for exercise on weekends.

The area is well connected. Several city bus lines run to the foot of the hill in Gros, and the start is within walking distance of the Zurriola beach, so it fits easily into a day in the city. Weather can change quickly, and paths become slippery in rain, so wear shoes with good grip and carry water. There is no entrance fee.

It suits walkers, pilgrims and anyone who wants a quieter side of San Sebastián, and it combines with the Chillida sculptures, the old town's pintxo bars and the hill of Urgull.