Parte Vieja (Old Town) Pintxo Bars

The Parte Vieja, the Old Town of San Sebastián, is a compact grid of narrow streets between the foot of Mount Urgull and the mouth of the Urumea river, and it is the best-known place in Spain for pintxos, the Basque version of tapas. Most of the district was rebuilt in the nineteenth century after the great fire of 1813, when British and Portuguese troops stormed the town during the Peninsular War, and its streets of tall, uniform houses with balconies, arcades and small squares give it a clean, ordered look. The Plaza de la Constitución, with its numbered balconies that once served as seats for bullfights, is the main square, and the basilica of Santa María and the church of San Vicente stand among the lanes.

Pintxos are small portions served on a slice of bread, often held together with a toothpick, which is what the name means in Basque. Bars along streets such as Fermín Calbetón, the Calle 31 de Agosto and the Calle Mayor line their counters with dozens of cold pintxos, piled with ham, anchovies, peppers, cheese, seafood and omelette, and a kitchen behind makes hot ones to order, which are listed on chalkboards. The custom is to walk in, take a plate, order a drink and then move on to the next bar, a ritual called the txikiteo, or in Spanish the ir de pintxos. Typical drinks are txakoli, the dry, slightly sparkling white wine of the Basque coast, which is poured from a height, and the local cider, sidra, and Rioja reds, all in small glasses.

Several bars have become famous for a single dish. Bar Nestor is known for its tortilla de patatas, which is made in limited quantities and served in the early afternoon and evening, and people queue to reserve a slice. Others are known for grilled mushrooms, anchovies in vinegar, stuffed peppers, or for the Basque cheesecake that has been copied around the world. More upscale places, such as Ganbara, serve seasonal ingredients, including wild mushrooms in autumn and shellfish, at higher prices and with more elaborate cooking. In many bars, napkins and toothpicks end up on the floor as the evening goes on, a custom that signals a busy and popular place, though not every bar follows it.

The pace is quick and social. People gather in groups, call out orders in a mix of Spanish and Basque, and eat standing, and the bars are full from midday to late at night. Tourists mix with locals, and it is wise to go with an open mind and to try the specialities recommended on the board. Some bars take reservations for sit-down meals, while most welcome walk-ins.

The Old Town is within walking distance of La Concha Beach, the Urgull hill and the Zurriola beach, and the Chillida sculptures and Monte Ulia are nearby. It suits food lovers and groups of friends. Evenings are liveliest, and weekends can be very crowded, so go early to find space.