La Concha Beach

La Concha Beach is the famous beach of San Sebastián, and it is also one of the most admired city beaches in the world. The name, which means the shell, comes from the shape of the bay, a nearly perfect semicircle that curves for about one and a half kilometres between two hills, Monte Urgull at the eastern end, beside the old town, and Monte Igueldo at the western end. In the mouth of the bay sits the little Santa Clara Island, which closes the opening and shelters the water from the Atlantic, so the sea in the bay is calm and the sand is gentle and wide. The beach is the centre of the city’s social life in summer and has been since the nineteenth century, when San Sebastián became fashionable as a seaside resort for the Spanish royal family and the aristocracy. Queen Isabella II came to bathe here in the 1840s, and the habit of the court brought grand hotels and villas.

The promenade that follows the curve of the bay, the Paseo de La Concha, is famous for its white wrought-iron balustrade, with its elegant curves and lamp posts, which is an emblem of the city. The route is a favourite for walking and cycling, and it links the old town to Ondarreta at the opposite end, with views of the sea, the island and the hills. Along the way are landmarks of the belle époque, including the Town Hall, formerly a casino, at the eastern end, the Palacio de Miramar on its hill at the western side, and the white building of La Perla, a bathing establishment from the early twentieth century that now houses a spa. The elegant look of the front gives the bay the nickname of the Queen of the Bays, a title it is said to deserve.

The beach is wide and well kept, and it is free to use, though showers and changing cabins carry a small charge during the summer season. The sand is fine and golden, and the tide, which is large in the Bay of Biscay, changes the width dramatically, so at high tide the sand can nearly disappear, while at low tide a wide expanse is uncovered. The water is clear and calm, and swimmers of all levels can enjoy it, though the Atlantic is cool. Lifeguards watch the beach in season, and rented loungers and umbrellas are available. A diving platform floats offshore, and many swimmers make for the island of Santa Clara, which is reached by swimming or by a small boat from the harbour.

In summer, the beach is very lively, with crowds on the sand and events along the promenade, and the early morning or late afternoon are quieter. In winter, the bay is calm and dramatic, with walkers on the promenade, and surfers choose Zurriola. The beach is a short walk from the old town’s pintxo bars.

The beach connects the main sights of the city. Mount Urgull, the Chillida sculptures at the foot of Monte Igueldo, Ondarreta and Zurriola beaches and the coastal trails of Monte Ulia are all within reach, and a day easily fills with swimming, walks and eating.