Cuenca Cathedral (Santa María and San Julián)

Cuenca Cathedral, dedicated to Our Lady of Grace and Saint Julian, stands on the Plaza Mayor in the old upper town of Cuenca, facing the town hall and its arcades. The city was conquered from the Muslims in 1177 by King Alfonso VIII of Castile, and the cathedral was begun soon afterward, in the late twelfth and early thirteenth centuries. Its design shows influences from northern Europe, and it is often described as one of the earliest Gothic cathedrals in Spain, with features from the Anglo-Norman style that are traditionally linked to Alfonso's wife, Eleanor of England. Saint Julian, the patron of the cathedral, was a bishop of Cuenca in the thirteenth century who made baskets to support himself.

The exterior has a mixed appearance. In 1902, the great bell tower and part of the façade collapsed, and the front that you see today was largely rebuilt in the twentieth century in a Gothic revival style, with a large rose window and pointed arches. The reconstruction remains rather austere, with a plain, unfinished look, and it contrasts with the older sides of the church, which retain their medieval details. The square in front is bright and busy, with cafes along the edge.

Inside, the layout is of a Latin cross with a tall nave, a high crossing and a gallery of arches above the aisles, called a triforium, which is a feature typical of Anglo-Norman Gothic. Later chapels were added in the Renaissance and Baroque periods, with carved screens, altarpieces and tombs, and the cloister contains the Arco de Jamete, a splendid Plateresque arch by the sculptor Esteban Jamete from the sixteenth century. Stained glass in the windows includes modern work that fills the nave with coloured light, creating a contrast with the severity of the stone.

The cathedral's treasures are displayed in the nearby Diocesan Museum, in the former Episcopal Palace, and they include works by El Greco as well as goldwork, tapestries and manuscripts. The museum is a short walk from the cathedral, and it is one of the main attractions of the old town. The cathedral itself is a living church, with services each day.

A visit usually takes an hour or two. It suits history and architecture lovers, and combines naturally with a walk to the Casas Colgadas, the Hanging Houses, which are only a few minutes away, and the Mirador de San Pedro. Check the current opening hours and arrangements for the cloister and museum before you go.