Generalife

The Generalife is the garden villa of the Nasrid sultans of Granada, set on a slope of the Sabika hill above the Alhambra and reached from the palaces by a shaded path. Its name comes from the Arabic Jannat al-Arif, usually translated as the Garden of the Overseer or the Architect's Garden, and it was built in the early fourteenth century, in the reigns of Muhammad III and Ismail I, as a country retreat where the rulers could escape from the formality of palace life. It is one of the oldest surviving Moorish gardens in the world, and its design, based on water, shade and enclosed courtyards, has influenced garden art for centuries. The Generalife belongs to the same UNESCO World Heritage Site as the Alhambra, listed in 1984.

The highlight is the Patio de la Acequia, the Court of the Water Channel. A long, narrow canal runs down the centre of a rectangular courtyard, flanked by flower beds, with jets of water arching across it from both sides, and the sound of the water fills the space. Arcaded pavilions stand at either end, and tall hedges and trees give shade. In the middle of the courtyard, a gallery opens toward a wide view of the Alhambra. The effect, in spring and summer, when roses, jasmine, orange blossom and other flowers are in bloom, is intensely fragrant and peaceful. A line of tall cypresses and an old tree, often called the Sultana's Cypress, are tied to romantic legends.

Above the courtyard, a stairway climbs through a tunnel of laurel and trees, the Water Staircase, where water runs down the handrails in channels, and it ends at a small terrace with a viewpoint, formerly a place of prayer. The upper levels have terraced gardens, paths and fountains that follow the hillside, and the ensemble shows how the Nasrid builders used the slope and the supply of water brought by canal from the mountains to create a series of cool, enclosed spaces. The more recent parts of the gardens, laid out in the twentieth century, extend the terraces with flower beds and hedges, and a theatre in the open air hosts performances in summer.

The main buildings of the Generalife are simple, with whitewashed walls, wooden ceilings and delicate stucco decoration, in contrast with the lavish interiors of the Nasrid Palaces, and they emphasise the garden as the main thing. The visit takes about an hour.

Access to the Generalife is included with the Alhambra tickets, and visits must be timed for the palaces, so booking ahead is essential, particularly in high season. It suits garden lovers and photographers. Visit in the morning for fewer crowds and soft light, and in spring for the best flowers.