Sacromonte Neighborhood

Sacromonte is the hillside quarter of Granada where people live in whitewashed caves dug into the soft rock, and it is the historic home of the city's Romani community and of the style of flamenco called zambra. It lies on the slope of the hill beyond the Albaicín, above the valley of the Darro river, with views across to the Alhambra, which looks magnificent from here, especially at sunset. Its name, Sacred Mount, comes from the discovery of the supposed relics of early Christian martyrs on the hill in the late sixteenth century, and the Abbey of Sacromonte, founded to house them, stands at the top of the hill, along with a series of curious parchments and lead tablets, the Lead Books, that were found at the same time.

The Roma, called Gitanos in Spain, arrived in Granada in the fifteenth century, and after the Christian conquest of the city in 1492, many settled on this hillside, digging homes into the rock where the ground was soft and the temperature steady. The caves are cool in summer and warm in winter, and their whitewashed walls and chimneys sticking out from the grass, along with prickly pear and agave plants outside, give the district a unique look. The community developed its own way of life, working as blacksmiths, basket makers and entertainers, and the hillside became the cradle of a particular tradition of flamenco, in which singing, dance and handclaps accompany celebrations in the caves. In 1963, heavy rain caused serious flooding that destroyed many of the cave houses, and thousands of residents had to move to other districts, which led to a decline in the neighbourhood.

Today, the quarter is still a place to experience flamenco. Several cave venues host zambra shows in the evening, where dancers and guitarists perform in small whitewashed rooms with the audience close by, and the shows can be intense and moving, though some are aimed at tourists and vary in quality. The Museo Cuevas del Sacromonte, a museum made up of several caves, explains the history of the district, the way of life of the inhabitants, their crafts and their traditions, with furnished caves that show how they were lived in. Guided tours of the quarter are also available.

The quarter is a steep climb, with narrow streets and paths on uneven ground, so comfortable shoes are essential. A walk up the Camino del Sacromonte from the Albaicín gives views of the Alhambra, the Sierra Nevada and the valley at every turn, and it is wise to avoid the middle of the day in summer because of the heat. Some visitors prefer to take a taxi or a minibus to the top and walk down.

It suits walkers, flamenco fans and photographers, and it combines naturally with a visit to the Alhambra and the Generalife, and with a wander in the Albaicín, a UNESCO-listed old Moorish quarter. Evening visits are the most atmospheric, but take care on unlit paths.