Hermitage of San Saturio

The Hermitage of San Saturio clings to a cliff on the bank of the Duero River just west of Soria, and it is one of the most unusual religious buildings in Castile. The chapel is built into the rock face above the river, so that parts of it seem to grow out of the stone, and the setting is a green park of trees along the riverbank, below a rocky outcrop that is part of the Sierra de Santa Ana. The Duero is close, and the walk from the town, along a path beside the water, makes the visit a pleasure in itself. It is one of the places in Soria that the poet Antonio Machado loved and wrote about, and the surroundings still have a sense of calm.

The chapel is dedicated to Saint Saturius, or San Saturio in Spanish, a hermit who, according to tradition, lived in the sixth century and who withdrew from the world to live in caves in the cliff above the Duero, where he spent his days in prayer. He is the patron saint of Soria, a Christian hermit of Soria’s early history, and his feast is celebrated in October with processions and local festivities. The caves where he is said to have lived can still be seen at the foot of the rock, and they are the origin of the place’s sanctity. Legends tell of a saintly man who attracted followers and who was visited by the faithful.

The present building is from the eighteenth century. An earlier chapel was damaged, and the church was rebuilt between about 1696 and 1704 in a Baroque style, with an octagonal central chapel dedicated to the saint, and a nave attached to it. The exterior is plain, in local stone, with a modest façade, and its charm lies in how it fits the rock. Inside, the space is intimate and quiet, with a single nave, arched windows, painted decoration and an altar with an image of the saint. A winding stair, cut into the rock, leads up to other parts of the building and to a viewpoint above, from which the river valley and the city can be seen. The acoustics in the stone interior are good.

The approach is from the old town, along the Paseo del Duero, a riverside promenade shaded by poplars and plane trees, which takes about fifteen to twenty minutes on foot. A bridge crosses the river to the chapel’s side, and a short climb leads up to the entrance. The walk is easy, and in spring and autumn the colours of the trees are beautiful. The chapel is open to visitors at certain hours, which change by season, so check before going.

The hermitage is close to the Monastery of San Juan de Duero, with its famous cloister, on the opposite side of the river, and the two can be combined in a pleasant half-day. The bridge in Soria and the old town are within reach. Bring good shoes for the path. A visit takes about an hour, including the walk.