Iglesia de Santa María la Real

The Iglesia de Santa María la Real is the parish church of Olite, in Navarre, Spain, and it stands in the Plaza de los Teobaldos right beside the walls of the Palacio Real, so the two buildings read as a single ensemble. The square takes its name from the Theobalds, the French-born kings of Navarre in the thirteenth century, and the church dates from the same medieval period. It was the church closest to the royal court, and for that reason it was used for ceremonies connected with the kings who lived in the palace next door.

The church is Gothic, with earlier Romanesque roots, and was built and modified between the thirteenth and fifteenth centuries. The feature that most visitors remember is the main portal, a deeply carved Gothic doorway on the front, which is considered one of the most beautiful in Navarre. The doorway is decorated with rows of figures set in the archivolts, scenes from the life of the Virgin and Christ, and statues of saints, and although time and weather have worn some of the stone, the quality of the carving is still clear. The façade also has a rose window and a tall, slender tower, and the church’s profile is part of the town’s skyline.

Inside, the church has a single large nave with ribbed vaults, and the stonework has a simple, serene character. The main altarpiece, a retablo, shows scenes of the Virgin Mary, and there are chapels with later altars and medieval sculpture, including a Gothic image of Christ crucified that dates from the fourteenth century. Navarre was a border kingdom with close ties to France, and the style of the carving reflects those links as much as local traditions. The church is still in use for worship, so visits may be limited during services.

Because it lies in the middle of the town’s main tourist area, the church is easily added to a visit to the Royal Palace of Olite. The Plaza de la Constitución is a short walk away, along with the Casa de la Cadena and the Jardines del Palacio Real, and the town’s wine cellars, such as the Bodegas de Olite, are within reach. The Parador de Olite, in the old palace, completes the group of buildings around the square.

Opening hours for the church vary, and it may be open only at certain times, so check with the tourist office. A visit takes around twenty minutes, though a longer pause in front of the portal is worthwhile. The best light on the carving is in the morning.