La Mola

La Mola is the high eastern end of Formentera, a plateau that rises steeply from the sea and holds the island's most dramatic views. Formentera is otherwise a flat island, with salt lakes, white beaches and low farmland, so the cliffs at La Mola come as a surprise. The plateau stands close to two hundred metres above the sea, with sheer cliffs on the east side that drop into deep blue water. On top, a road leads through pine woods and old stone-walled fields to the village of Es Pilar de la Mola, the lighthouse and a viewpoint.

The Faro de la Mola, La Mola Lighthouse, was lit in 1861 and stands near the cliff edge. It is a robust stone tower, built to guide ships passing between the Balearic Islands and the mainland, and its position is exposed to wind and sea. Jules Verne is often connected to the place, because his novel Hector Servadac includes a reference to the Formentera lighthouse, and a stone monument to the writer stands in front of the building. The light is still part of the navigation network, while some parts of the complex have been adapted for cultural use, with exhibitions on maritime heritage and local art.

The village of Es Pilar de la Mola has a character of its own. It grew around the small church of Nostra Senyora del Pilar, and from the 1960s and 1970s it became a refuge for travellers and artists looking for a quiet life, which gave Formentera its relaxed reputation. A craft market with local products, jewellery and clothing takes place on certain afternoons in the high season, and it is well known as the Mercat hippie del Pilar de la Mola. Restaurants and bars offer local dishes, and the village is a pleasant stop even if you are not interested in the lighthouse.

Most visitors come for the light. Sunrise from the cliffs is a favourite goal, with the sun climbing out of the Mediterranean, and sunset also brings a quiet atmosphere. The paths and the tracks around the plateau offer short walks, and the area is easy to explore by bike, though the climb up from the lowlands is steep, and a scooter or car makes it easier.

It suits couples, cyclists, photographers and anyone who wants a view over the island. Bring a layer, since the wind at the top can be strong, and check the opening times of the lighthouse spaces, which vary by season.