Mercado Central de Abastos

The Mercado Central de Abastos is the main food market of Zaragoza, in the old part of the city, a short walk from the Plaza del Pilar and close to remains of the Roman wall of Caesaraugusta. It was built at the beginning of the twentieth century and opened in 1903, to a design by Félix Navarro and Francisco Albiñana, at a time when Spanish cities were replacing old open-air markets with modern covered halls. The building is a good example of the iron architecture of the period. A light metal frame carries a tall, glazed hall divided into three aisles, like a church nave, and decorative brick and ironwork give the exterior a Modernist character.

Inside, the layout is clear and airy. Stalls are arranged in long rows, and light from the roof falls on counters of fruit, vegetables, fish, meat, cheese and bread. The market is still a working place where residents of the old town do their daily shopping, and the owners know their customers. Because it is not a tourist-oriented food hall, prices are modest and the atmosphere is local, with conversation at the counters and shopping carts pulled between the stalls.

The market is a good place to meet the produce of Aragon. The region is known for its lamb, sold as Ternasco de Aragón, as well as cured hams from Teruel, sausages such as longaniza and fine cheeses, including those from the Pyrenees. Vegetables from the Ebro valley are a speciality, among them borage, artichokes, peppers and asparagus, and fruit includes peaches from Calanda and pears and apples from the surrounding orchards. Candied fruits covered in chocolate, a local sweet, and the traditional Adoquines del Pilar, hard caramel sweets, are sold as souvenirs. Some stalls offer small plates or a glass of wine that you can enjoy at the counter, and there are bars around the edges.

The building was restored in the late twentieth century, and it still keeps its original structure. It is worth looking up to see the iron frame and the glass, and at the entrances for the decorative details. The market lies near the Avenida de César Augusto, along the line of the Roman walls, and close to the Plaza de Lanuza and the old town, so it is easy to combine with a walk to the Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar, La Seo and the Torres de la Zaidería.

It suits food lovers, photographers and anyone who prefers a market where locals shop. Morning is the best time, as stalls close in the early afternoon and on Sundays. Check opening times before you go.