Mercado de Atarazanas

The Mercado de Atarazanas is the main food market of Málaga, on the edge of the old town near the Alameda and the Puerta del Mar. The name comes from the Arabic word for a shipyard, since the site was once the Nasrid dockyard of the city, built in the fourteenth century on the waterfront, in the days when the sea reached much closer to this spot. Ships were built and repaired here, and the building was part of the defences of the port. Over the centuries the sea retreated and the site was used for other purposes, until it was converted into a market in the nineteenth century.

The present market building dates from 1879, and it is built of iron and glass, in the style of the great covered markets of the period. A reminder of its earlier life remains at the entrance, where a white marble gateway, a horseshoe arch from the original Nasrid shipyard, has been incorporated into the façade, and it is a remarkable survival from the Islamic city. Inside, a stained-glass window made in the twentieth century shows scenes from the history of the city and the shipyard, and adds a touch of colour to the high hall.

Inside, the market is lively and noisy, and it is the best place in the city to see how Málaga eats. Stalls sell fruit and vegetables, meat, cured hams, cheeses, olives, spices, nuts and dried fruit, and the fish section is a highlight, with the catch of the day laid out on ice, including sardines, red mullet, prawns and the small anchovies known as boquerones, which are a symbol of Málaga's cuisine. Fried or marinated in vinegar, they are served all over the city. There are small bars within the market where you can taste the products on the spot, and locals stop for a drink and a snack while they do their shopping.

The best time to visit is in the morning, when the stalls are at their fullest and the atmosphere is liveliest, and many stalls close in the afternoon. The market is near the Calle Larios, the Málaga Cathedral, the Picasso Museum Málaga and the Alcazaba, and the Teatro del Soho is a short walk away, so it is easy to combine with a day of sightseeing.

It suits food lovers, photographers and anyone who likes to see daily life in a city. Come with an appetite and time to browse, and check which sections are closed on particular days.