Mercado de la Esperanza

The Mercado de la Esperanza is the main covered market of Santander, a large iron-framed hall on Plaza de la Esperanza in the middle of the city, close to the cathedral and the seafront gardens. It was built in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, when many Spanish cities replaced open-air stalls with covered markets using cast iron and glass, which allowed for light, ventilation and a hygienic arrangement of the stalls. The building has two floors, with a central space open to the roof so that the light falls into the hall from above, and balconies with railings run around the upper level.

The market is best seen in the morning, when it is busiest. The ground floor is devoted to fish, meat and fresh produce, and the displays are what you would expect of a port city on the Cantabrian coast. Fishmongers sell hake, sea bream, bonito, shellfish and the anchovies that have made towns such as Santoña famous, and the fish is laid out on ice in great variety. Butchers and delicatessens sell beef from the green pastures of Cantabria, as well as cured sausages and cheeses. Fruit and vegetable stalls offer produce from the region’s farms, and in season there are wild mushrooms and local beans.

The upper floor has more food and local specialities. Cantabrian cheeses are a highlight, from the soft, creamy quesucos to strong blue cheeses made in the mountains, and the region’s pastries, such as sobaos pasiegos, a soft sponge cake, and quesadas, a baked cheese dessert, are sold by local bakers. Spirits from Liébana, in the Picos de Europa, including the strong grape spirit known as orujo, can also be found, and some stalls sell flavoured versions that make good gifts.

The market is also a social place. Shoppers know the stallholders by name, and the conversation and the calls of the sellers fill the hall. Entry is free, and visitors are welcome to browse. Most stalls close at around two in the afternoon, so aim to come before then, and it is closed on Sundays. The hours are set by the individual traders and change on holidays, so check locally.

The market is in the centre of Santander, close to the Centro Botín, the Paseo de Pereda and the Catedral de Santander, so it is easy to include in a walk through the city. The Palacio de la Magdalena and the beaches of El Sardinero are a bus ride away. A visit takes about thirty minutes, longer if you stop to buy food for a picnic.