Mirador de la Isla de Mouro

The Mirador de la Isla de Mouro looks onto a small rocky islet at the mouth of the Bay of Santander, and the Faro de la Isla de Mouro on it is one of the best-known images of the city. The white conical tower was built in 1860 to guide ships into the bay, past the dangerous rocks and reefs at the entrance. It stands about eighteen metres tall, and the light itself shines from far higher above sea level. The islet is exposed to the full force of the Cantabrian Sea, and the lighthouse is still part of the navigation system, though it is no longer staffed in the old way. In the nineteenth century the keepers and their families lived in difficult isolation, cut off by rough water for days at a time, which has given the place a reputation for hardship in local memory.

Visitors cannot normally go to the island or inside the lighthouse. The attraction is the view of it, and the best place is the Magdalena Peninsula, the green headland on the eastern side of the city, where footpaths lead along the shoreline to viewpoints facing the islet. From there the white tower, with the waves breaking around it and the open sea behind, makes a dramatic photograph, especially on days with a heavy swell or in the golden light of late afternoon. The viewpoint is a public space open at all hours, though the walk is best done in daylight.

The name has been the subject of confusion. Mouro is the form used for the island and its lighthouse, and it is sometimes confused with Mogro, a village on the nearby coast. Old maps spelt the name in different ways, and the puzzle is typical of coastal place names, where an error on a chart can persist for centuries. If you want to know more, the small displays near the viewpoints often explain the history.

The peninsula is a good place for a longer walk. It also holds the Palacio de la Magdalena, a royal summer residence built in the early twentieth century for the Spanish king Alfonso XIII, and the grounds include small beaches and a modest marine zoo with seals and penguins. The route from the city centre along the shore, from the Paseo de Pereda and the Playa de la Concha area, takes around an hour on foot, or a short bus ride, and the Parque de El Sardinero is not far.

Wear a windproof jacket, because the headland is exposed, and bring a camera or binoculars. The viewpoint is free.