Mercado del Val

The Mercado del Val is the oldest surviving covered market in Valladolid, a building of iron and glass completed in 1882 that has been part of the city’s everyday life for well over a century. It stands on Calle Sandoval, close to the Plaza Mayor in the middle of the old town, and it is a good example of the nineteenth-century market halls that were built across Spanish cities when open-air trading was replaced by covered buildings with better light, ventilation and hygiene. The architecture combines a cast-iron frame, which allowed wide open spaces without heavy walls, with large areas of glass in the roof and windows.

The market was restored and modernised in 2013, in a project that kept its character as a nineteenth-century building while adapting it to today’s needs. The restoration preserved the elegant ironwork and the airy interior and updated the services, the stalls and the access, and the building lies within a protected conservation area. It is now a lively place where traditional trading and a newer food culture sit side by side. Roughly fifty traders, including butchers, fishmongers, greengrocers, bakers and other food specialists, operate in the hall, selling both retail and wholesale.

The quality of the produce reflects the farmland of Castile. In season, you can find vegetables and fruit from the valley of the Duero, cured meats and sausages, lamb and suckling pig, which are central to the cooking of the region, and cheeses from the sheep of Castile and León. Seafood arrives from the coast of the north, and many stalls sell bread, pastries and wine. Some of the counters have turned into small bars, where visitors can order a pincho, the small snack on bread that Valladolid is famous for, with a glass of wine, and this gives the market a social side.

The market is free to enter, and the common areas are open to the public during trading hours. Mornings are busiest, when residents shop, and the stalls close in the early afternoon, with some opening again in the evening or on certain days. It is best to check the current hours locally, and Sundays are usually quiet.

Because it is in the centre of Valladolid, the market is close to many of the main sights. The Casa de Colón, the Iglesia de San Pablo and the Palacio de Pimentel are a short walk away, and the Mercado Victoria, a newer food hall, offers a contrast of old and new styles. The Teatro Calderón and the Iglesia de Santa María la Antigua are also within walking distance, so the market works well as a stop for a drink or a snack during a walk around the city. Allow half an hour.