Plaça de la Independència

Plaça de la Independència is the broad, elegant square at the edge of the old town of Girona, where the medieval streets give way to the wider avenues of the nineteenth-century city. It lies a few steps from the Onyar river, near the Pont de Sant Agustí, and it forms a natural transition between the Barri Vell, the old quarter, and the newer districts across the water. The square is laid out in a neoclassical style, with a uniform line of arcades on the ground floor, regular façades above and warm-toned plaster in ochre and cream. The consistency of the architecture gives it a calm, formal feeling in contrast to the tight, winding lanes of the old town.

The square takes its name from the War of Independence against Napoleon's armies, and especially from the sieges that Girona endured in 1808 and 1809. The city resisted a French siege for seven months in 1809 and became known for its stubborn defence, which earned it the title of the Immortal City. The ground on which the square stands was previously occupied by the convent of Sant Agustí, which was demolished in the nineteenth century, and the square was laid out in the 1890s. A monument at the centre commemorates the defenders of the city, with figures of heroes and allegorical elements, and it became a symbol of local pride.

Today the square is one of the main gathering places of the city. The arcades are lined with cafes, bars, restaurants and shops, and in good weather the terraces extend into the open space. It is a favourite place for coffee in the morning, an aperitif at midday or a glass of wine in the evening. Locals meet under the arches, and the square is also the place where demonstrations and public celebrations are held. The atmosphere is lively but never rushed.

The square is a natural pause between sights. From here, you can cross the river to see the colourful houses along the Onyar, which hang over the water, walk up into the Jewish Quarter and the cathedral, or head toward the Parc de la Devesa, the city's large park. The Basilica of Sant Feliu, the Arco de Fluvià and the Monastery of Sant Pere de Galligants are all within walking distance. The Girona Art Museum, in the old episcopal palace, is nearby.

It suits everyone, and the square is free and open at all hours. Evening is the most atmospheric time, when the arcades are lit and the terraces are full. A short stop works well between sightseeing sessions.