Praia das Catedrais

Praia das Catedrais, or As Catedrais, is one of the most remarkable beaches in Spain, on the coast of Galicia near the town of Ribadeo, in the province of Lugo. The name, which means Cathedrals Beach, comes from the huge arches of rock that line the shore. Sea, wind and rain have carved the cliffs of slate and schist into tall vaults and buttress-like pillars that remind many people of the flying buttresses of a Gothic cathedral. Some arches reach heights of around thirty metres, and when the tide goes out you can walk beneath them as if entering a nave. The site was declared a Natural Monument in 2005. Its official name is Praia de Augas Santas, but almost everyone uses the nickname.

The spectacle depends entirely on the tide. At high tide the sea covers the sand and floods the caves, so the beach almost vanishes. At low tide, a long stretch of sand is exposed, with passages between the rock walls, side caves, small pools and fallen blocks. Visits to the beach are only possible around low water, so tide tables are essential, and it is wise to leave the sand well before the tide turns. The sea can return quickly in places, and some parts of the beach are cut off first.

Because the site is fragile and very popular, access in the busiest periods is regulated. At certain times of year, notably around Easter, in summer and on public holidays, visitors must obtain a free authorisation in advance, and it is limited to a set number of people per time slot. Outside those periods it is usually possible to walk down without a permit, but the rules can change, so check with the official channels before you travel. Parking is available near the cliffs, and in busy periods a shuttle may run from Ribadeo.

Even when the tide is wrong, the cliff-top lookouts offer fine views of the arches and the Cantabrian Sea. The area is also a home for seabirds and marine life, and the rocks are covered in algae and shellfish at low water. Sturdy footwear is recommended, because the rocks are slippery and the sand can be wet. In windy weather the exposed coast is cold and rough.

The beach is a good half-day trip from the town of Ribadeo, where you can have seafood in the harbour afterwards. It suits walkers, photographers, families with older children and anyone who likes landscapes that change with the sea. The best light is usually in the morning or toward sunset, and a low spring tide gives the most extensive views.