Valverde Town Square (Plaza de la Constitución)

Valverde is the capital of El Hierro, the smallest of the main Canary Islands, and it has an unusual feature: it is the only capital among the Canary Islands that does not sit on the coast. The town lies inland on a hillside at roughly 570 metres above sea level, above the port area of La Estaca, and trade-wind clouds often drift through the streets, giving the town a cool and misty character that contrasts with the dry coasts of other islands. Its position inland dates back to the days when pirate raids made the shore dangerous for settlements.

The central square, the Plaza de la Constitución, is the main meeting point. It is a small, shaded square with trees and benches, surrounded by public buildings and cafes. Next to it stands the parish church of Nuestra Señora de la Concepción, an eighteenth-century church with a whitewashed façade and a tower, which is the main religious building of the town. The streets that lead off the square, including Calle de la Constitución and Calle Doctor Quintero, are lined with small shops, bakeries, bars and restaurants, and they climb and drop along the slope, so the town feels like a series of terraces. The town hall, the Ayuntamiento, is a short walk away.

The architecture is typical of the Canary Islands: low houses with white walls, wooden balconies and doors, and tiled roofs, some painted in strong colours. The pace is slow, and the town is not a monument-filled destination, but a place to watch everyday island life. In the morning, locals shop and meet for coffee, and in the evening the cafes fill with conversation. Local products on sale include cheese, a speciality of El Hierro made from cow's, sheep's and goat's milk, as well as honey, almonds, wine and a sweet called quesadilla.

El Hierro is a UNESCO biosphere reserve and one of the quietest islands in the archipelago, so a visit to Valverde fits with the slow, nature-oriented tone of the island. From the town, roads lead to the El Hierro Biosphere Reserve Visitor Center, to the pine forest of El Pinar and to the viewpoint at Malpaso. The island's other major sites, such as the El Golfo valley and the lighthouse at Orchilla, are within an hour's drive.

The square suits anyone who wants an easy stop in the middle of a drive, and it is free and open at all times. A bus links the town with the port, and a car is the best way to explore beyond it. Bring a light jacket in case of mist.