Zurriola Beach

Zurriola is San Sebastián’s surf beach, a long strip of sand in the Gros district on the east bank of the Urumea river, facing the open Bay of Biscay, and it has a very different character from the sheltered beaches of La Concha and Ondarreta on the other side of the Old Town. Where La Concha is enclosed by its islands and headlands and its water is calm, Zurriola is exposed to the full force of Atlantic swells, and its steady waves have made it the centre of surfing in the Basque city. The beach was developed in the 1990s as the city turned more towards this side of its coast, and it has since become a lively social place, especially with younger people.

The beach runs between the mouth of the Urumea, at its western end, and the cliffs of Monte Ulia on the east. At the river end stands the Kursaal, two glass cubes designed by the architect Rafael Moneo, which opened in 1999 and serve as the city’s auditorium and congress centre, as well as the main venue of the San Sebastián International Film Festival. The cubes, which glow at night, give the beach an unusual modern backdrop. A broad promenade runs along the back of the sand, with bars, cafes and restaurants, and terraces fill with people in the evening.

Surfing is the main activity. Several surf schools and shops operate along the beach, offering lessons and equipment hire, and beginners and experienced surfers share the water, often in large numbers. Paddleboarding and bodyboarding are also popular, and major surf competitions have been held here. Lifeguards watch the beach in the summer season, and flags show the safety conditions. The waves can be strong, and currents near the river mouth can be hazardous, so swimmers should stay between the flags and follow lifeguard advice. On calm days the water is pleasant for a swim, though it is cooler than the Mediterranean, and in winter the beach is quiet and rather dramatic, with waves breaking in heavy swells.

The Gros district itself is worth exploring. It has a more local, less touristy feel than the old town, with pintxo bars, bakeries and small shops, and the streets behind the beach have some of the best food in the city at lower prices. Beach volleyball, football and skateboarding are common on and beside the sand, and the mood is relaxed and social.

The beach is open at all times and free to enter, and showers and changing facilities are available. It is reached on foot from the old town in about ten minutes across the Kursaal bridge, and several buses stop nearby. The coastal trails of Monte Ulia start at the eastern end of the beach, and Mount Urgull, La Concha and Ondarreta lie on the other side of the old town, so a day can combine the different faces of San Sebastián.