El Golfo Lagoon and Palm Grove

El Golfo is the great crescent-shaped valley on the north-western side of El Hierro, and it is the island’s most dramatic landscape. The valley is a huge amphitheatre bounded by cliffs hundreds of metres high, and it opens to the Atlantic Ocean along a gently curving coast. It was formed when a very large section of the island collapsed into the sea in a giant landslide, an event that geologists date to tens of thousands of years ago, leaving behind a vast scar. In the centuries since, vegetation has covered the floor of the valley, and the contrast between the green slopes, the black volcanic coast and the deep blue sea is striking.

The valley floor is an agricultural area, sheltered by the cliffs and warmed by the sun, and it supports crops that are surprising on such a volcanic island. Banana plantations, pineapples, papayas, vineyards and fruit trees cover the fields, with white villages scattered among them. The wine of El Hierro, made on the slopes of the valley, has a protected designation. Palm trees, the Canary Island date palm, stand in groves and along the roads, which gives part of the area the look of a palm grove, and the combination of tropical fruit and bare lava is unusual.

The coast has its own interest. Black sand and boulder beaches, with surf breaking against them, run along the foot of the valley, and natural pools formed in the lava, locally known as charcos, such as the Charco Azul, give protected places for swimming when the sea is calm. The colours of the algae and water vary, and reports of a vivid green lagoon refer to this kind of feature, though conditions change and visitors should check locally before planning a swim. The sea can be rough and dangerous, and caution is essential near the shore.

One of the best views is from the Mirador de la Peña, a viewpoint designed by the Lanzarote artist César Manrique, built on the edge of the cliffs above the valley, with a restaurant and a terrace that look out over the whole of El Golfo. From here the full shape of the crescent is visible, with the villages below and the ocean beyond. Other viewpoints and walking paths run along the rim and down into the valley.

The area is reached by road, and a private car or taxi is the most practical way to travel, since public transport is limited. Parking is available near the main viewpoints. Entry to the area is free and open at all hours. The valley is close to the Lighthouse of El Hierro, the pine forest of El Pinar and the island’s visitor centre, and it fits into a day touring the western part of the island. The weather can change quickly, with mist on the cliffs, so bring a jacket.