El Serrallo

El Serrallo is the fishermen’s quarter of Tarragona, a strip of low houses and quays beside the commercial port, a short walk below the old town and the Roman monuments. It developed in the nineteenth century, when the fishing community grew and settled together by the harbour, and it has kept its own identity ever since. Where the upper town is about the Romans and the Church, El Serrallo is about the sea, and it gives a different and more everyday view of the city. The neighbourhood is working rather than polished, with fishing boats, nets and stacks of boxes, and the sound of gulls and engines.

The focus of the quarter is the fishing harbour. Each afternoon the fleet returns, and the catch is sold at the fish auction in the port, an event that can be watched by visitors in some circumstances, though access depends on the arrangements of the fishermen’s guild. Tarragona’s fishing fleet brings in the blue fish, squid, hake and monkfish that feature on local menus, as well as the red prawns that are among the most prized seafood on this coast. The quarter’s houses were built for fishing families, and the layout of narrow streets and small squares reflects the closeness of the community.

Food is the main reason to go. The restaurants of El Serrallo are known for fresh seafood grilled or served in traditional dishes, many run by families who have been in the trade for generations. The cooking of Tarragona is linked to romesco, a sauce made of dried peppers, tomato, almonds and garlic, and the fishermen’s stew called romescada, which uses it, is a local classic. Rice dishes, grilled fish and fried small fish are other staples. The restaurants fill at lunchtime and in the evening, particularly at weekends, so booking is wise.

The neighbourhood has a church dedicated to Saint Peter, Sant Pere, the patron saint of fishermen, and each year in late June the quarter celebrates his festival with a procession of boats at sea and street events, which draws many visitors. A promenade along the waterfront gives views of the sea and of the ships entering and leaving the port, and from here the line of the old town and cathedral rises above the roofs.

El Serrallo is a pleasant walk from the Rambla Nova and the Balcó del Mediterrani, and it is easily combined with a visit to the Roman Amphitheatre, which stands beside the sea, and the Mercat Central. The walk is flat, and the area is free to enter at all times. Evenings are lively, and the best time for a meal is at lunchtime or early evening.