La Savina Village

La Savina is the port of Formentera in Spain and the place where nearly every visitor first sets foot on the island. It lies on the north-western side of Formentera, a short way from the long sand spit that leads north towards Ibiza, and it is the terminal for the ferries that cross the strait from Ibiza town in around half an hour. The harbour was developed in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, when salt from the nearby salt flats was shipped from here, and the village grew from the salt works and the quays. Today the salt flats of the Estany des Peix and the Ses Salines Natural Park lie close by, and the flamingos that feed in the lagoons can often be seen from the road.

The port is protected from storms by breakwaters, and it has a large marina where ferries, sailing yachts and pleasure boats are moored side by side. A renovated maritime terminal houses the ticket offices and a few cafes, and the quay is the centre of the village’s activity, with a continuous flow of passengers, bicycles and scooters. Around the harbour are shops, restaurants, bars and hotels, and a seaside promenade runs along the front, with places to sit and watch the boats. A small market, with some hippie-style stalls selling crafts, clothes and jewellery, operates on the promenade, recalling the island’s associations with the counterculture of the 1960s and 1970s, when Formentera attracted artists and travellers.

La Savina is the main base for exploring the island. Bicycle, scooter and car rental shops line the streets near the terminal, and boat hire and water sports companies operate from the marina, offering excursions to the coves and to the islets nearby. It is also the starting point for walking and cycling routes towards the beach of Ses Illetes and the salt flats. The island’s capital, Sant Francesc Xavier, is about three kilometres inland, and buses link the main villages and beaches.

The village has its own festivals. On 16 July, the fiesta of the Virgen del Carmen, the patron saint of sailors, is celebrated with a religious service, a procession and, in some years, a blessing of the boats, and the day is also an occasion for music and food. Dates may change, so check the island’s calendar.

Most visitors pass through La Savina quickly, but it is worth lingering for a meal or a drink, since fish and rice dishes in the harbour restaurants are fresh. Arrive early for ferry check-in in high season, and book tickets in advance for July and August. There is no admission to the village, and the promenade is open all day.