Parador de Zamora

The Parador de Zamora is a state-run hotel in the historic centre of Zamora, in the Palacio de los Condes de Alba y Aliste, a fifteenth-century palace that stands on the Plaza de Viriato, named after the Lusitanian leader who fought against Rome and whose statue stands in the square. The Paradores are a Spanish network of hotels, started in 1928 by the state, that occupy castles, monasteries and palaces and aim to preserve historic buildings by giving them a use. This one is among the more attractive in the region, in a city that is already rich in medieval architecture.

The palace is a noble townhouse from the end of the Middle Ages, and it blends medieval and Renaissance elements. It was the residence of the Counts of Alba y Aliste, one of the great families of Castile, and the family’s prestige is reflected in the building’s scale and detail. The most notable features are the courtyard, with arches and carved stone, and a glazed wooden gallery that lets light into the upper rooms. The Parador’s public areas are furnished with traditional pieces such as armour, tapestries, heavy wooden furniture and canopied beds, which give an atmosphere of old Castilian elegance, and the rooms combine historic character with modern comfort.

The restaurant offers food typical of the province of Zamora, which is known for hearty dishes based on good local ingredients. Rice in the Zamora style, salt cod prepared in local ways, roast lamb, cured sausages and sheep’s cheese are examples of regional cuisine, and the dishes served may change with the season. A visit for a meal or a drink on the terrace is a pleasant way to enjoy the setting even for those not staying, though it is wise to book. Details of facilities such as a pool, a gym and opening periods vary, and the hotel may close for refurbishment at times, so check the Parador website for current availability and prices before making plans.

The location is excellent for exploring. Zamora’s Romanesque cathedral, with its distinctive tiled dome, is a short walk away, and the old town is full of Romanesque churches, among them the Colegiata de Santa María la Mayor and the Iglesia de San Ildefonso. The Duero river and its old stone bridge lie below the walls, and the castle and the line of the ancient wall give views over the countryside. The Museo de Zamora, the Iglesia de San Juan de los Caballeros and the Iglesia de San Vicente are within the same area.

The Parador suits travellers who like a historic setting and a quiet base in a small city. Zamora is known for its Holy Week processions, and the hotel is busy at that time, as well as in the summer months. Booking ahead is wise, particularly for weekends and holidays.