Plaça de la Font

Plaça de la Font is the main square of Tarragona’s upper town, the Part Alta, and it is the place where the city’s social life is concentrated. It is an elongated open space, with a gentle curve, and the unusual shape comes from history: the square sits over the remains of the Roman circus, where chariot races were held in the time of Tarraco, when the city was one of the most important in the Roman province of Hispania. The long curved line of the buildings around the square follows the outline of the ancient circus, and parts of its structure survive beneath the houses, which gives the plaza a strong layered quality. Some of the arcades of the circus can be seen in a nearby archaeological visit.

The square has an easy, convivial atmosphere. A fountain stands in the middle, the font that gives the plaza its name, and it was long a place for gathering water and news. Around it, the façades of tall houses rise, with balconies and shutters, and the terraces of cafes and restaurants spread across the pavement. The Town Hall, with its neoclassical front, overlooks one side of the square, and the street it faces leads into the network of old lanes. In the evening the plaza fills with people who come for tapas, a vermouth or dinner, and in summer the tables stay busy until late. The mood is relaxed and local, and it is as much a place for residents as for visitors.

The square also plays a part in the city’s traditions. Tarragona’s main festival, Santa Tecla, held in September, brings parades of giants, dragons and devils through the streets of the old town, and the city’s teams build castells, the human towers that are a tradition of Catalonia. The square is one of the places where such festivities gather crowds. The exact programme changes each year, but the area is always busy during the festival.

From the plaza, narrow streets lead up to the cathedral, which stands on the highest point of the old town, and down towards the Roman Walls and the sea. The Balcó del Mediterrani, a lookout at the end of the Rambla Nova, is a short walk away, and the Roman Amphitheatre, with its view of the sea, is easy to reach. The Mercat Central and the Museu d'Art de Tarragona are close to the same area, and the National Archaeological Museum of Tarragona is nearby.

The square is free and open at all times. It is a good place to pause between visits to the Roman sites and the cathedral. Prices in the terrace restaurants are moderate, and lunch is the busiest period.