Puerto de las Nieves (El Caño)

Puerto de las Nieves is the small fishing harbour of Agaete, on the north-west coast of Gran Canaria. The village grew up around the Ermita de las Nieves, a small chapel, and today it is one of the most appealing places on the island's coast, with a modest port, a row of low whitewashed houses and a line of restaurants serving fish caught that morning. Beyond the harbour, steep cliffs of dark rock fall straight into the Atlantic.

The chapel holds the village's main treasure, a sixteenth-century triptych of the Virgin and Child painted by the Flemish artist Joos van Cleve. During the Fiesta de la Rama, held every 4 August, a copy of the triptych is carried in procession to the parish church of Agaete, and thousands of people come for the festival, so the harbour is far busier than usual at that time.

The best-known sight in the bay was the Dedo de Dios, God's Finger, a rock pillar pointing to the sky and one of the symbols of Gran Canaria. A tropical storm in 2005 broke it, but the rock formation, properly called the Roque Partido, is still a landmark of the coast beside the harbour and a favourite subject for photographers at sunset.

The port is also a gateway: the ferries to Santa Cruz de Tenerife leave from the new pier, so many visitors arrive or depart here and take the chance to eat before the crossing.

Eating is the main reason to linger. Small harbours of this sort have long been the centre of life in coastal villages, and the catch includes vieja, a local parrotfish, as well as sea bream, grouper and sardines. Typical dishes are simple: fish grilled over a hot plate and served with papas arrugadas, small potatoes boiled in salted water until the skins wrinkle, with a spicy red or green mojo sauce. The best restaurants are those where the menu depends on the day's catch. The valley behind Agaete is known for its small farms, including coffee plantations, and local coffee is worth trying after the meal.

Visiting is a gentle experience. You walk along the quay, watch the boats and nets, choose a table and let the day slow down. It is a good place for photographs in the late afternoon, when the light on the water is warm and the white houses glow. Walks along the cliffs and coast paths offer views of the open Atlantic, and the natural seawater pools of Las Salinas de Agaete are along the coast nearby.

It suits people who enjoy a quiet meal by the sea, and the harbour is free to visit. There are regular buses from Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, and a car makes it easier to explore the valley and the coast.