Torre del Salvador

The Torre del Salvador is one of the four Mudejar towers that give Teruel its place on the UNESCO World Heritage list under the heading Mudejar Architecture of Aragon. It rises above the street called Calle El Salvador, a short walk from the Plaza del Torico, and belongs to the former church of San Salvador. The tower dates from the medieval period, when Muslim and Christian craftsmen, an Islamic tradition meeting Christian patrons, worked side by side in Aragon, and it shows the style that came out of that meeting: brick as the main material, geometric patterns built into the walls, and glazed ceramic pieces set among the brickwork.

The form is simple and powerful. The tower has a square plan and climbs in several tiers, each decorated more densely than the one below. Panels of interlaced brick, blind arches and bands of green and white glazed tiles catch the light and make the surface look woven rather than built. A passage at street level lets pedestrians walk through the base of the tower, which gives it the character of a gateway as much as a belfry. Later centuries added Baroque elements to the church and the upper parts, but the medieval structure is the part that earned the protection.

Because the old church has been altered over time, the tower itself is the main thing to see. Most people look at it from the street, stepping back to take in the proportions and then looking closely at the ceramic work. It is easy to pair with the other Mudejar towers in town, especially the Torre de San Martín, which stands in the same family of design. Comparing the two shows how a similar idea can be used with different patterns and proportions.

Teruel's old town is compact, so you can easily connect the tower with the Plaza del Torico, the Iglesia de San Martín and the Iglesia de Santa María, as well as the Mausoleum of the Lovers, tied to the legend of Diego and Isabel. The tower looks best in morning or late afternoon light, when the shadows pick out the relief of the brick.

It suits anyone with an interest in architecture, history or photography, and the visit can be short. A slow walk around the nearby streets gives the setting that makes it more meaningful. Check locally for access to any interior spaces, as these arrangements change.