Alley Of The Arquillos (Callejón De Los Arquillos)

The Callejón de los Arquillos is a narrow lane in the old town of Córdoba, in the maze of streets near the Mezquita-Catedral, and it takes its name from a series of small arches that bridge the gap between the buildings on either side. Passages of this kind, where houses were joined by arches over the lane for strength or to add rooms above, are common in Mediterranean old towns, and they give such places their atmosphere of shadow and surprise. The alley is too narrow to be used as a through route, and it is mainly viewed from the entrance, where the row of white arches frames a deep, dark space.

The lane is associated with the Casa de las Cabezas, the House of the Heads, a historic building nearby, and with one of the great legends of medieval Spain. According to the story, the seven sons of a nobleman of Castile, the Siete Infantes de Lara, were betrayed by their uncle and ambushed by Muslim forces, and their heads were carried to Córdoba, then the capital of the caliphate, where they were presented to the ruler. The father, who was held prisoner in the city, is said to have recognised the heads of his sons. The tale, retold in medieval epic poems and ballads, ends with another son born in captivity who grew up and took vengeance. Local tradition connects the seven arches with the seven heads, and the Casa de las Cabezas takes its name from the same legend, which makes the alley a point of pilgrimage for lovers of folklore.

Whether or not the story is literally true, it is part of the way Córdoba remembers its past, and it shows how the old town is a place of overlapping stories, Roman, Islamic, Jewish and Christian. A visit to the alley is short and quiet, and it is best combined with a walk through the surrounding streets. A bench or a corner nearby offers a chance to look at the light and shadow, and the white walls, the blue and yellow pots and the green plants that are typical of the town.

The lane lies near other well-known sights. The Mezquita-Catedral, the great mosque turned cathedral, is a few minutes away, and the Calleja de las Flores, a narrow alley decorated with flower pots and framing a view of the cathedral bell tower, is a favourite for photographs. The Alcázar of the Christian Kings and the patios of Córdoba, the courtyards that are opened to the public in May during a famous festival, are also within walking distance.

The alley suits photographers and those who enjoy quiet corners and local legends. Early morning, before the crowds arrive, is the best time. Look carefully for the arches and take time to explore the side lanes, and check the opening of the Casa de las Cabezas if you wish to go inside.