Mercado Victoria

Mercado Victoria is a gastronomic market on the Paseo de la Victoria in Córdoba, ten minutes' walk from the historic quarter and from the AVE station. It opened in spring 2013 and is described as the first gastronomic market in Andalusia, a food hall where stalls and bars sell fresh produce and serve it ready to eat. It stands in the Jardines de la Victoria, in what was the Caseta del Círculo de la Amistad, a nineteenth-century iron structure that began life as the oldest booth of the Córdoba fair in 1877, to which a pseudo-Mudéjar building was added in 1918. The whole covers about two thousand square metres.

Córdoba is a city of good eating, and the market gives a quick overview. The local classics are salmorejo, the thick cold tomato and bread cream topped with ham and egg, and its lighter cousin gazpacho, along with rabo de toro, the oxtail stew, and flamenquín, a roll of ham and pork fried in breadcrumbs. Wines from the nearby Montilla-Moriles region, from the pale fino to the dark sweet Pedro Ximénez, go with them. Many of the dishes are made with olive oil from the groves of Córdoba province.

About thirty stalls share the hall. Traditional counters sit alongside specialised sections for rice dishes, wines, salmorejos and gazpachos, while others serve Mexican, Italian or Japanese food, so a group with different tastes can all find something. The market is more modern in spirit than a daily produce market, and it is as much a place to meet friends for a drink as to shop. The iron frame lets in plenty of light, and the long communal tables fill up in the evening.

The market works best as a relaxed meal between sights. The Mezquita-Catedral, the Roman bridge over the Guadalquivir and the lanes of the Judería lie a short walk to the south, and the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos is nearby. On a hot day, the shaded gardens around the market are a pleasant place to rest.

Entry is free, and costs depend on what you order. Opening hours vary through the year, so check locally before going. Arrive early in the evening in summer, since the busiest tables go quickly, and expect crowds at weekends. The market suits families, groups of friends and visitors who like to graze on small plates.