Iglesia de Santa Juliana

The Colegiata de Santa Juliana is the Romanesque collegiate church of Santillana del Mar and the building from which the town takes its name. Santillana is a contraction of Santa Juliana, a martyr of the early fourth century whose relics were brought to this place in the early Middle Ages, and around them a monastery was founded. Pilgrims came to pray at her tomb, and the settlement that grew around the shrine became a town. In the twelfth century, the church was rebuilt in stone in the Romanesque style, and it became a collegiate church, governed by a chapter of canons instead of a bishop, a status that gave it wealth and independence.

The building is one of the masterpieces of Romanesque art in Cantabria. Its plan has three naves, ending in three semicircular apses, and the exterior is made of golden stone, with a square tower and a fine west portal. The facade is simple but harmonious, with arches and carved ornament, and the church sits on a quiet square beside the Plaza Mayor, a few steps from the main street. Inside, the nave is lit by narrow windows, and the solid pillars and round arches give a feeling of calm strength.

The cloister is the highlight. Built in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, it is surrounded by arcades with pairs of columns whose capitals are carved with figures, animals, plants and scenes from the Bible, such as stories from the Old Testament, as well as fantastic creatures and details of everyday life. Each capital is different, and looking at them is like reading a stone picture book. Monsters, musicians and knights appear beside saints, which shows the imagination of the carvers. The cloister is cool and quiet, and a good place to spend time in hot weather.

In the middle of the church stands the tomb of Santa Juliana, a Romanesque sarcophagus, and the church also holds a large altarpiece in the Hispano-Flemish style from the sixteenth century, and other altars and sculptures. An old Romanesque statue and other religious objects add to the interest. The chapter house and other rooms can sometimes be visited.

The church is only a few minutes from the Torre de Merino, the Torre de Don Borja and the Plaza Mayor. The Museo de Altamira, with its replica of the cave of Altamira, is a short drive away, and the Camino de Santiago route that passes through northern Spain stops in the town. It suits history and art lovers and anyone exploring the village. Opening hours and arrangements depend on the season, and access may be limited during services, so check before you go.