Palacio de los Velázquez de Medrano (Casa de las Cadenas)

The Palacio de los Velázquez de Medrano, also called the Casa de las Cadenas, is a noble family house, and it sits among the manor houses and palaces that give Santillana del Mar its character. Santillana is a small town in Cantabria, a few kilometres from the coast, that kept its medieval layout and an unusual number of noble residences. Its main street and squares are lined with stone houses built between the fifteenth and eighteenth centuries by families who grew rich from service to the crown, trade and the colonies, and who wanted to show their rank in architecture.

The noble houses of this region are known as casonas, and they share common features. They are built in sandstone and limestone, with strong, thick walls, an entrance with a large arch or lintel, and wooden balconies on the upper floors. The most prominent element is usually the family coat of arms, carved in stone and set above the doorway or on a corner of the façade, displaying the lineage of the house. Roofs are of red clay tile, with wide eaves, and some houses include a tower. Stone steps, small courtyards and gardens complete the layout.

The name Velázquez de Medrano refers to a noble lineage linked with several houses in northern Spain, among them a fortified palace in Navarre in the village of Igúzquiza. Such families often held properties in several regions, and their coats of arms appear in different places. In Santillana, the surrounding streets give the best idea of how these houses were meant to be seen, from the pavement, along a narrow lane, with the carved stone above the door.

Most of these houses are private homes or hotels, or have been converted for other uses, and they can only be seen from outside. Walking through town is therefore the main way to experience them. The Plaza Mayor, with the towers of Merino and Don Borja, the Iglesia de Santa Juliana, a Romanesque collegiate church, and the cobbled streets leading out from it are the core of the walk. A short distance away, the Museo de Altamira with its replica of the cave paintings and the Parque de la Naturaleza de Cabárceno are other places to explore.

The walk suits anyone who likes quiet streets and old architecture, and a stroll takes an hour. Early morning and evening are best, when the day trippers are gone. Check locally for opening times of any individual house.