The Pueblos Blancos
The pueblos blancos, or white villages, are hill towns of whitewashed houses spread across the north of Cádiz province and the neighbouring part of Málaga province. Many of them sit inside or around the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park, a limestone mountain range declared a biosphere reserve in 1977 and covering about 51,700 hectares. The towns are close together, the roads between them are scenic, and the area works far better by car than by public transport.
A route from Arcos de la Frontera to Ronda covers the best-known villages in a loop that can be driven in two days, but three or four days allow time to walk and to stay overnight in the mountains.
Suggested Route
This order runs west to east and finishes in Ronda, which has the most accommodation and onward connections:
- Arcos de la Frontera
- Grazalema
- Zahara de la Sierra, via the Puerto de las Palomas pass
- Olvera
- Setenil de las Bodegas
- Ronda
Seville, Jerez and Málaga all make reasonable start or end points with car hire. Arcos is the natural entry from Jerez or Seville; Ronda is closest to Málaga and the Costa del Sol.
The Villages, One by One
Arcos de la Frontera stands on a rocky ridge with a sheer cliff on one side. The old town at the top has narrow lanes, Baroque churches and a square with a lookout over the Guadalete valley. Park below and walk up; the old-town streets are very tight for cars.
Grazalema is the main base for walkers in the natural park. The surrounding sierra is known for being one of the wettest areas in Spain, which explains the green slopes. Nearby is El Pinsapar, one of the last forests of the Spanish fir (Abies pinsapo), a rare conifer found only in southern Spain and northern Morocco. Some trails in the park, including the pinsapo forest and the Garganta Verde gorge, need a free permit from the park authorities, so arrange it before you arrive.
Zahara de la Sierra is reached from Grazalema over the Puerto de las Palomas, a high mountain pass with wide views. The village climbs a steep hill beneath the ruins of a Moorish castle, and below it lies a large reservoir. The road over the pass has many hairpin bends, so allow extra time.
Olvera is visible from far off, with its castle and large church on the hilltop. It is also a starting point for the Vía Verde de la Sierra, a former railway line converted into a walking and cycling path.
Setenil de las Bodegas is unusual among the white villages because it is built into a river gorge rather than on top of a hill. Some streets run under huge overhanging rock shelves, and some houses use the rock face itself as a wall or roof. It is small enough to see in an hour or two.
Ronda is the largest town on the route, split by El Tajo, a deep gorge cut by the Guadalevín river. The Puente Nuevo, the 18th-century bridge across it, is the town's most photographed sight. Ronda also has one of Spain's oldest bullrings and the remains of the Roman town of Acinipo nearby. Plan at least an overnight stay here.
Driving Tips
- Roads are good but slow. Mountain roads in the sierra are paved and well maintained but narrow and winding. Distances look short on a map but take longer than expected.
- Park outside the old centres. Most villages have car parks at the edge of the historic quarter. Old-town lanes are steep, narrow and sometimes one-way or restricted.
- Fill up in larger towns. Petrol stations are spread out in the mountains.
- Watch for walkers and cyclists on the pass roads, especially at weekends.
When to Go
Spring and autumn are the most comfortable seasons, with milder temperatures for walking and fewer crowds. Summer is very hot in the lowland towns such as Arcos, though the higher villages are cooler. Winter brings rain and occasional snow on the high passes around Grazalema, so check road conditions before crossing the sierra between December and March.
Planning the Days
A relaxed plan for three days:
- Day 1: Arcos de la Frontera in the morning, then on to Grazalema for the night.
- Day 2: A morning walk near Grazalema, then over the Puerto de las Palomas to Zahara, continuing to Olvera and Setenil.
- Day 3: Ronda, including the gorge viewpoints and a walk down below the Puente Nuevo for the view up at the bridge.
With only two days, skip Olvera and spend the night in Ronda instead of Grazalema.
